We had to transfer via Honolulu but the flights are quick, often and very routine, much like riding on a bus really. We stayed at a plantation style motel in the centre of Lihue, the capital of Kauai, although it didn't feel like a town at all, more like a village. This island is by far the most laid back, with wild chickens roaming all over. Allegedly during a hurricane in 1992, many chicken coops were overturned and the freed chickens were never rounded up.
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| The chicken whisperer |
With no natural predators the chicken population has exploded - local legend has it that if you were to boil a wild chicken and a rock in the same pan, the rock would be less chewy, which explains why the locals don't catch them to eat. The cacophony of roosters in the early daylight hours takes some getting used to but all adds to the wonderful character of this great place.
It is not possible to drive all the way round the island, but we set off anti clockwise and visited Kilauea point, with its grand lighthouse and the national wildlife refuge harboring many birds including Albatross, Shearwaters and Nene - the Hawaiian goose.
We drove on up to Ke'e beach, the end of the road in that direction, stopping to admire the Maniniholo dry cave and also for an Hawaiian specialty of shave ice, just perfect for the hot and humid climate. On our trips to the west, we spent a full day exploring the incredible Waimea Canyon
and got a glimpse of the untouched Na Pali coast which is accessible only by boat or a long hiking trail. In the distance, the truly unique island of Niihau, in private ownership and with a population of just 130 native Hawaiians, generally off limits to the public hence its nickname "the Forbidden Island".
An advert in the in-flight magazine led us to the Kauai Humane Society, who were very pleased to supply us with a shelter dog of our choice for the day to take on a "field trip". We think this program is a great idea as it gives the dogs a welcome break from the shelter environment, gets them noticed by potential adopters, and gives us some great doggy time and good exercise too. We chose Millie, a beautiful and friendly mid sized hound mix who took us for a long walk along the coast near Maha'ulepu, around the edge of a golf course, across sand dune, beach, and cliffs. She was very well behaved with us, and dressed in her "Please Adopt Me" vest attracted several people who came up to chat with us. We think she enjoyed every minute as much as we did, and we were very pleased to hear that she was adopted just two weeks later.
The walking theme continued with a five mile hike through an historic Wai Koa wood plantation, part of a newly created community park. Though not a dog friendly site, it runs through soaring Albizia's and Norfolk Island pines, and onto the largest plantation of mahogany in the USA, where around 86,000 trees are being grown. There's plenty of history here too, like the stone dam built in 1891 when the area was a sugar plantation, which still provides irrigation for the working farm that sits on this land.
June 14th saw the 98th annual King Kamehameha Parade - a floral style parade celebrating Hawaiian heritage followed by a Ho'olaule'a (a big party) on the lawn in front of the County Historical Building. The King and his followers paraded on a rather nontraditional Hawaiian 18 wheeler flatbed truck, fully decorated with flowers and leis, followed by decorated cars and a procession of horses and riders, each island represented by a local lady dressed as a Queen, and all decorated with fresh flowers and handing out candy to the local kids too. Reminiscent of our own Battle of Flowers, it was a fun event completely supported by the community, and we also enjoyed the after party where we tucked into some traditional Hawaiian food.